Scottish Tourism Guide - Articles
Mull, Iona and Ulva - 'Isles of Enchantment'
The islands of Mull, Iona, and Ulva lie off the west coast of Scotland, served by the port of Oban. The islands are a haven for wildlife, a geologist's mecca, a botanist's paradise, and a traveller's dream.
Mull is famous for its eagle population, with both golden, and white tailed eagles (the largest British raptor) being plentiful. Careful observers can also see otters along the magnificent coastline, as well as seals basking on the rocks, and red deer a plenty. To view the elusive corncrake it is necessary to travel to Iona. This is a short ten minute journey that takes you to another world where the pace of life is much slower and the satisfaction so much greater.
For a really exciting trip you can take a small boat to Staffa - home to Fingals cave and a host of puffins. On the way there is a chance of seeing basking sharks, or even a whale. Dedicated whale watching trips can also be had at Iona and from Tobermory.
There are more than 4000 plant species on the islands, including many orchids visible during the summer along the roadsides. There are daffodils and primroses, violets and bluebells, foxgloves and thrift to name but a few. My favourite is the grass of Parnassus, a beautiful white flower with green stamens and a perfect form.
There is history everywhere, from the stone circles, to the magnificent fortress that is Duart castle - home of the chief of the clan Maclean. There are forts of a smaller scale (and not so easy to find) built by the Celts, as well as crannogs (dwellings on small islands) and brochs (tower shaped buildings with a double wall that had room enough for a man to walk between them).
In 563 Columba sailed from Ireland to Iona and set up his monastery there. From Iona he went on missionary journeys across Scotland spreading Christianity to the people. This monastery has since been rebuilt as an abbey which is presently run by Historic Scotland. The carvings inside are very impressive as one of the top schools of stone carving was centred here. There is an excellent museum showing the products of their labours just at the back of the abbey.
Mull was once the middle of the biggest volcanic complex in Europe. This shows in the fantastic scenery that constantly changes as you drive around the island on the little single track roads. Far from being a problem, these are fun to drive on, provided you stick to a few simple rules - always let someone pass if they are travelling faster than you (it could be the doctor, the vet, or the coastguard) - always stop on the left - and don't drive so fast that you cannot stop before the next passing place. There are basalt lava flows, gabbro, dolerite and granites, and the oldest rock of all - the Lewisian gneiss of which Iona was built, 2,800 million years ago. At one time Mull was attached to Canada!
The tiny island of Ulva is a dream. There is virtually no motorised transport, very few inhabitants, and an amazing array of rock formations, including basalt columns like the ones on Staffa. At one time there was a healthy population of 600 souls on this little island, making a living off the kelp produced from the seaweed that washed up on the shore. Now there are only about 25 left there. Ulva is definitely worth a visit and you won't go hungry as there is an excellent little restaurant, "The Boathouse" to satisfy your hunger and thirst.
Tobermory is the main town on Mull with its colourful houses and shops along the harbour, and an award winning fish and chip van. There are several good restaurants as well as three or four good pubs. Many years ago a galleon from the Spanish Armada was blown up in the harbour. The wreckage belongs to the Duke of Argyll who is currently attempting to find it! Whale watching trips start from here, as well as many walks, for which you can also get a guide. Cruise ships stop here, and sometimes even dolphins call in for the afternoon.
Craignure is the port where the main ferry, from Oban, calls in. From here you turn right to Tobermory and left to Iona. Nearby is the terminus for the only narrow gauge railway in the Hebrides. This runs to Torosay castle - more of an Edwardian Baronial mansion than a castle - where there are beautiful gardens and trees. Further up the road is the turning to Duart castle which sits on the point - almost closest to Oban - that commands the sea approaches for miles around. There is another Maclaine castle at Lochbuie - not far down the road - where there is a splendid beach, and some wonderful walks.
Other beaches not to be missed are at Calgary bay in the North west of the island, Uisken in the South, and Fidden near Fionnphort from where you catch the ferry to Iona. At Ardtun you are more likely to find fossils on the beach than sand.
There is a wildlife week at the beginning of May and a food festival in September, and there is always something going on in between. In the winter there are fewer hotels shops and restaurants open, but the scenery is just as magnificent - if not more so - and the wildlife is often easier to see!
If you are visiting Mull it is a good idea to book ahead as accommodation is sometimes a little difficult to obtain, and at the peak of the season even ferry places are hard to get. However, your efforts will be well rewarded with a warm welcome, good food and drink, and a wealth of things to see and do.
Mull is famous for its eagle population, with both golden, and white tailed eagles (the largest British raptor) being plentiful. Careful observers can also see otters along the magnificent coastline, as well as seals basking on the rocks, and red deer a plenty. To view the elusive corncrake it is necessary to travel to Iona. This is a short ten minute journey that takes you to another world where the pace of life is much slower and the satisfaction so much greater.
For a really exciting trip you can take a small boat to Staffa - home to Fingals cave and a host of puffins. On the way there is a chance of seeing basking sharks, or even a whale. Dedicated whale watching trips can also be had at Iona and from Tobermory.
There are more than 4000 plant species on the islands, including many orchids visible during the summer along the roadsides. There are daffodils and primroses, violets and bluebells, foxgloves and thrift to name but a few. My favourite is the grass of Parnassus, a beautiful white flower with green stamens and a perfect form.
There is history everywhere, from the stone circles, to the magnificent fortress that is Duart castle - home of the chief of the clan Maclean. There are forts of a smaller scale (and not so easy to find) built by the Celts, as well as crannogs (dwellings on small islands) and brochs (tower shaped buildings with a double wall that had room enough for a man to walk between them).
In 563 Columba sailed from Ireland to Iona and set up his monastery there. From Iona he went on missionary journeys across Scotland spreading Christianity to the people. This monastery has since been rebuilt as an abbey which is presently run by Historic Scotland. The carvings inside are very impressive as one of the top schools of stone carving was centred here. There is an excellent museum showing the products of their labours just at the back of the abbey.
Mull was once the middle of the biggest volcanic complex in Europe. This shows in the fantastic scenery that constantly changes as you drive around the island on the little single track roads. Far from being a problem, these are fun to drive on, provided you stick to a few simple rules - always let someone pass if they are travelling faster than you (it could be the doctor, the vet, or the coastguard) - always stop on the left - and don't drive so fast that you cannot stop before the next passing place. There are basalt lava flows, gabbro, dolerite and granites, and the oldest rock of all - the Lewisian gneiss of which Iona was built, 2,800 million years ago. At one time Mull was attached to Canada!
The tiny island of Ulva is a dream. There is virtually no motorised transport, very few inhabitants, and an amazing array of rock formations, including basalt columns like the ones on Staffa. At one time there was a healthy population of 600 souls on this little island, making a living off the kelp produced from the seaweed that washed up on the shore. Now there are only about 25 left there. Ulva is definitely worth a visit and you won't go hungry as there is an excellent little restaurant, "The Boathouse" to satisfy your hunger and thirst.
Tobermory is the main town on Mull with its colourful houses and shops along the harbour, and an award winning fish and chip van. There are several good restaurants as well as three or four good pubs. Many years ago a galleon from the Spanish Armada was blown up in the harbour. The wreckage belongs to the Duke of Argyll who is currently attempting to find it! Whale watching trips start from here, as well as many walks, for which you can also get a guide. Cruise ships stop here, and sometimes even dolphins call in for the afternoon.
Craignure is the port where the main ferry, from Oban, calls in. From here you turn right to Tobermory and left to Iona. Nearby is the terminus for the only narrow gauge railway in the Hebrides. This runs to Torosay castle - more of an Edwardian Baronial mansion than a castle - where there are beautiful gardens and trees. Further up the road is the turning to Duart castle which sits on the point - almost closest to Oban - that commands the sea approaches for miles around. There is another Maclaine castle at Lochbuie - not far down the road - where there is a splendid beach, and some wonderful walks.
Other beaches not to be missed are at Calgary bay in the North west of the island, Uisken in the South, and Fidden near Fionnphort from where you catch the ferry to Iona. At Ardtun you are more likely to find fossils on the beach than sand.
There is a wildlife week at the beginning of May and a food festival in September, and there is always something going on in between. In the winter there are fewer hotels shops and restaurants open, but the scenery is just as magnificent - if not more so - and the wildlife is often easier to see!
If you are visiting Mull it is a good idea to book ahead as accommodation is sometimes a little difficult to obtain, and at the peak of the season even ferry places are hard to get. However, your efforts will be well rewarded with a warm welcome, good food and drink, and a wealth of things to see and do.
